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| A princedom for paisley! de Le Cuona fabrics - paisleys, linens and lush velvets |
I recently had the opportunity to interview the inspiring and insightful Hanneke Swart, owner and Captain at the helm of Mavromac & The Gatehouse. Although we chatted for over an hour, we only scratched the surface of all there is to know about Mavromac, their fabrics, and the fabric industry in general.
When I was still working in the fabric industry, Mavromac’s fabrics were considered by many to be the “gold standard” in terms of quality and longevity. I think it’s true to say that they’ve managed to retain their place in the South African landscape as pioneers of pure, natural fabrics and are still a trusted source for fabrics made from natural fibres.
Mavromac have retained their legacy and timeless fingerprint, yet they remain relevant and are well positioned to inform consumers by educating and enhancing their fabric literacy.
Hanneke is a kindred spirit. She grew up in a small town (as did I) and clearly has an undying passion for beautiful fabric (as do I!) Since taking over from Marguerite, the original founder of whom she speaks with great affection - Hanneke has been leading the Mavromac team. Prior to taking over the brand, Hanneke worked for Mavromac for many years and is quick to pay homage to those who mentored her in the ways of the industry.
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| Left: de Le Cuona mustard linen, paisley and teal velvet. Right: Mavromac Weathered linen and Perfect Paisley in Dijon. |
Niche is nice, family is fantastic
Mavromac was originally established to fill a need in the market. It grew out of a desire to introduce exquisite fabrics that previously were not made available in South Africa. Although their fabrics initially catered to a niche market, Mavromac has been instrumental in developing “fabric literacy” amongst their end-users regarding what constitutes superior composition, fine design and creative colouration.
Since inception, the relationships that Mavromac fostered with the editeurs they represent was grounded in shared values and a dedication to providing high quality fabrics that are conceived and manufactured mindfully, and that lean in to a classic aesthetic. It’s clear from speaking with Hanneke that they have a sense of belonging to the “family” of editeurs they represent. Pierre Frey, Colefax, De Le Cuona, Canovas, Dongia, Armani Casa and Jane Churchill are just a few of the wonderful fabric brands represented by Mavromac in South Africa.
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| (Mavromac Weathered linen with Pierre Frey's Les Rizieres de Shangbao Chinoiserie Toile, heavy embroidered fabric and velvet stripe) |
Showrooms, silver linings and special spaces
Despite the inevitable disruption to “business as usual” that Covid19 has brought about, Hanneke is quick to acknowledge that there is an upside for her; instead of
spending time in her office, she’s been reigniting customers interest in Mavromac’s fabrics on the showroom floor.
Hanneke has also observed that, stemming from Covid19, lockdown and the zoom-meeting phenomenon, people have a renewed appreciation for their homes. She’s noticed a definite shift from curating a “showcased” home, to creating a homely, beautiful, space that is shaped around the concept of comfortable living.
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| (The delectable de Le Cuona paisley with Huckleberry herringbone and marigold velvet) |
Slow décor: a long love affair not a one night stand
Reflecting on the impact of the readymade market, both Hanneke and I share the sentiment that the abundance and availability of “fast-décor” as robbed consumers of the opportunity to understanding the true value of fabric, textiles, and soft furnishings. In addition, fast- décor has robbed consumers of the experience of discovering and falling in love with fabric that has been mindfully conceived.
“It is almost as if we (marketeers) have forgotten to educate our client base regarding the wonders that are out there… the jewels that are to be found.” - Hanneke Swart
Reflecting on our chat, it feels as if fast décor and the readymade market has taught us to buy more, but value less. This in turn has denied us, the consumer, the opportunity to uncover hidden treasures that have heirloom value. In this way, we have been tricked into finding romance in the getting, not the having. Which leads us to the question of sustainability.
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| (Mavromac Perfect Paisley paired with their Weathered Linen and Colefax's new wide stripe) |
Big hearted, small families
For Mavromac South, sustainability (where possible) is centred around supporting small, independent, family-owned mills, rather than purchasing from channels of mass-production. There tends to be an inherent integrity with family-owned mills that have stood the test of time and where each person who plays a part in the process has a vested interest. The dynamics of dealing with family-owned mills means that Mavromac are able to maintain close, interpersonal relationships with suppliers, which are built on trust and transparency.
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| Romantic florals from Colefax and Fowler's new range |
Sustainability starts with the consumer
When asked about sustainability, fair trade and eco-friendly textiles, Hanneke tells me that Mavromac, as well as many editeurs, are slowly working towards incorporating more eco-friendly textiles into their ranges. Despite the increased awareness regarding sustainably from the editeurs point of view, local South African customers still tend to be largely uninformed regarding the concepts of sustainability, fair trade, and eco-friendly fabrics.
The industry has made solid strides in this regard, but my understanding is that until the means of production have caught up in terms of reclaiming , innovating, engineering and manufacturing fabrics in such a way that they’re sustainable, eco-friendly and affordable, there is still room for improvement within industry on the whole.
For now, perhaps the clue to sustainability is to apply the slow décor rule: buy less, value more.
Timelessly trending
“There’s enough out there to cover all the styles.” - Hanneke Swart
Whether trends suggesting a shift from the full, “layered” aesthetic to the paired down look-and-feel that typically features in our zeitgeist, Mavromac still leans in to high-quality natural fabrics that will fit into a variety of contexts. Regardless of styles and trends, it’s in the way that fabric is applied that requires a special understanding and skill set. That’s where knowledge, experience and expertise comes in…
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| Pierre Frey: a flight of fabulous fancy paired with their velvet stripe and de Le Cuona's marigold linen |
Specialist or Pinterest
Nowadays, the average consumer is more sophisticated in terms of design, trends and aesthetics than in previous eras. They have access to a plethora of information and images that inspires and educates them. To a point. Although many people are able to creatively conceptualise the aesthetic they desire, it takes a particular skill set, coupled with a lifetime of knowledge to execute the finer details. Especially when it comes to big projects.
Interior Designers and Decorators have been viewed by many as simply agents for “make pretty.” However, it takes experience and knowledge to know how fabrics will perform and therefore where and how they should be applied. There is a place for every fabric, but not every place is suitable for every fabric. In addition to the expertise required to make the right fabric choice, it should be noted that designers and decorators are required to have both an expansive birds-eye view and microscopic attention to detail. They are required to think conceptually, plan practically, procure timeously, manage efficiently and advise mindfully. Because of this, their roles are unlikely to become redundant any time soon.
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| Mavroma's Perfect Paisley in Celadon works beautifully with these two embroidered beauties from Colefax & Fowler's new range |
Collaborations of Development and Design
“I’m a big believer in the creative talents of South Africans.”
A big focus area for Hanneke over the past 8 -10 years has been developing and growing their Gatehouse furniture range. She’s been nurturing an incredible team of artisans who design and create furniture for Mavromac & The Gatehouse. The inclusion of furniture in Mavromac & The Gatehouse’s offering is Hanneke’s brainchild, and the pieces are blazing a trail within the industry. (Psst. I have a feeling that their Cuban rocking chair will become an icon of South African fine furniture designs.)
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| My favourite chair in the history of chairs! The Cuban Rocking chair - it has such gorgeous proportions! |
A huge but rewarding undertaking, Hanneke has facilitated discovering, harnessing and training the carpenters and creators who craft furniture for their range. These artisans, in turn, have trained up their adult children (and extended family members too) who are now also part of The Gatehouse furniture-family. The passion, pride and dedication that they have for their work is visible in the pieces they produce. And, Hanneke says, the enrichment they derive from transforming raw materials into beautiful pieces is palpable.
Merci Mavromac
In a throw-away, easy-come-easy-go, consume-to-excess society, it fills me with joy to know that pioneers like Mavromac hold fast to principles of pure, natural quality and are still forging forward as custodians of exquisite fabric.
Watch this space…
Mavromac are launching a new fabric collection SOON. In addition, they will be launching a range of photographs and etchings alongside their new furniture range. Follow them on Instagram and Facebook to see when it all happens.
